In February 2023 I rode from Christchurch - Milford Sound and back up to Queenstown with a bunch of gravel riding buddies from Tauranga and beyond. It was around 1100km with over 11,000m climbing and 11 days riding.

The route was part of the relatively new Sound to Sound route from Picton to Milford devised by NZ cycling legends the Kennet Brothers.

The group started at Picton and did the full loop and I joined in around 1/3 of the way through as I didn’t quite have enought leave for the full trip! The full route is on ride with GPS here

day 1 - Christchurch to Methven

90km, 600m climbing

Flew into Chirstchurch first thing and rode out to the mountains to meet up with the Psykil gravel crew who had ridden from Rangiora that day.

Cruisey 90k spin with 600m climbing, perfect for warming the legs up. Kevin kept me company as he’d detoured from the group in Rangiora the day before to visit his son.

Day 2 - Methven to Arrowsmith lodge

69.3km, 668m climbing

This was technically off piste of the official S2S route but keenly anticpated. You needed to get permission from the station owner for one section - apparently two feuding brothers, one who welcomed cyclist and the other who didn’t. We met the friendly one for a chat at the station.

Big country scenery, fabulous weather and riding. The lodge was fabulous too and a few of us had a quick dip in the lake next to it. Here is a video from the day.

Day 3 - Arrowsmith Lodge to Geraldine

88km, 198m climbing

A spin down the hill to Geraldine. Coffee stop in Mt Summmers, clouds cleared for a sunny afternoon. Refueled in the afternoon ready for big day to Tekapo.

On the social side of things yesterday afternoon in Geraldine we continued the Kiwis vs Barbarians (ie the native South Africans, Brits etc) tournament with games of Pétanque and Pool to follow up the Barbarians’ impressive Jenga victory from the night before. Pool was especially nail biting with some incredible play resulting in the cue ball being precariously balanced on the edge of a pocket at one stage and the black being surrounded by the barbarian team’s balls just as the Kiwis were trying to pot it. It was almost as exciting as the recent women’s rugby world cup final with the result going down to the wire. In the end the Kiwis won much to Stephen Lewis’s delight whereupon he did a haka-like dance around the pub.

So the Barbarians need to get a couple wins in. Unfortunately for me my suggested cartwheel competition was not received with enthusiasum on health and safety grounds as that would have given us an easy win! But we stil had the curling tournament at Naseby to look forward to.

Day 4 Geraldine To Tekapo

112km, 1,743m climbing

Big day in the saddle with 111km and 1700m+ climbing. Around 50% on gravel with a couple monster climbs.

Ride highlight for me today was climbing up MacKenzie saddle then screaming down the gravel road onto the Tekapo side and seeing the landscape switch from rolling green farmland on the Geraldine side to big open plains on the Tekapo side with snow-capped mountains in the background, burnt umber- coloured tussock grass contrasted against a big blue sky.

Magic. This is why we ride.

Rounded off the day with a soak in the hotpools overlooking Lake Tekapo.

day 5 - Tekapo to Lake Ohau

91.8km, 532m climbing

A day of three different blue blue lakes, canals and mountains. Great views of Mt Aoraki. Fun trails to Twizel and around Lake Ohau.

Awesome swimming in Lake Ohau to round off the day.

Day 6 - Lake Ohau to Omarama.

41km, 444m climbing

Short day today over the hill from Lake Ohau with a fun descent and last views of the MacKenzie basin before heading to towards Otago.

Detoured to some clay caves on the way to Omarama.

day 7 - Omarama to Oturehua via the Omarama saddle

79km, 1,155m climbing

Today was another monster climb into the unknown as it was over an offroad pass none of us have ever ridden before into

The climb went up to about 1200m rewarded by views and a fast descent through about 30 streams which were fun to ride through.

Crossed the boarder somewhere into Otago and the landscape shifted to rolling hills with rocky outcrops.

Dinner in the Wedderburn pub on the Otago rail trail.

Day 8 - Rest day - curling

Curling world championships between the Kiwis and the Barbarians - the Kiwis destroyed the Barbarians!

Large ice creams to follow then chilling out in the sun.

Day 9 - Oturehua to Cromwell

108km, 767m climbing

This route was via the Otago Rail Trail and Dunstan Trail.

Well rested after a day of curling and ice cream eating we had an awesome day on two awesome trails. Hadn’t ridden the Dunstan before and it was brilliant. Interesting to ride and endlessly flowing with views changing from the hydro dam to mountains along the lake to Mediterranean- style vinyards at the end.

Fab cafe lunch stop at the Industrial cafe on Alexandria also where we saw a cool dog carrier for biking.

day 10 - Cromwell to Athol

92km, 1,793m climbing

Cromwell to Athol was a monster day with 1700m of climbing over the Nevis track. There was a long ride out of the valley to Welcome Rock then a brilliant descent with the best views over patchwork fields and the Remarkables. Awesome meal later on at Athol also with slow cooked meats.

Day 11 - Athol to Te Anau

109km, 741m climbing

Athol to Te Anau was also a hard ride but because of the wind which got gusty mid-way through. But we made it.

day 12 - Te Anau to Milford Sound

118km, 1,942m climbing

Amazing day of scenery, four starters made the full trip from Queen Charlotte Sound to Milford Sound and I joined in about a third of the way down from Christchurch, plus Martin’s friend TJ joined us from Tekapo so it was great having another girl in the group. Can’t believe I’ve ridden all that way!

Tour epilogue

75km, 680m climbing

To get home we rode from the Mavora lakes road around the mountains to Walter Peak Station and caught the boat to Queenstown.

With immaculate timing we had fair weather until we were all enjoying a coffee inside waiting for the boat then it started raining! We have been very lucky with weather on this trip!!

This has to be my favourite bikepacking trip ever, it’s been an absolute blast with great company. So many awesome landscapes we have passed through.

Trip organiser Stephen Lewis also put together a couple of videos of the trip which were awesome to look back on a few months later in the middle of winter.

Sounds to Sounds Part one: Picton to Lake Ohau…. https://youtu.be/VHv6I-2Aqro

Sounds to Sounds Part 2: Lake Ohau to Queenstown…https://youtu.be/7EjmUUn80tM